Missoula MT to Lewiston ID

Tonight we are right on the Idaho / Washington border in the small town of Lewiston. 3 States in 4 days isn't a bad average! Since we left Missoula in the cold and rain on Thursday we've covered 217 miles of Highway 12 - also called the North West Passage. The first 40 or so miles out of Missoula climb up from about 3250 feet up to Lolo pass right on the Montana / Idaho border at 5235 feet . Crossing the pass we reached the snow line again, this time in freezing rain. Just enough time for a quick photo at the PST sign before fast, cold, precarious descent down to the Lochsa Lodge. We've been yoyoing from wearing summer gear to winter gear so many times now. We even contemplated donating all our winter gear to the 2 guys we met riding Eastwards last week...

After a day riding in the rain Lochsa was like an oasis of heat, beer and good food. Our cabin had a big gas burner and after a little shenanigins and risk of detonating the propane tank we managed to get it fired up to dry out our kit. After wolfing down food in the bar, the lodge owners (one staunch Republican and the other Democrat) invited us along to their pool competition later that evening. The competition aspect seemed to be more about political arguing than pool and after 5 hours of drinking we reached a happy stalemate at 'Well you guys created America, so its all your fault'. This place was one of the best bars we'd been to so far and we had a good laugh with everyone we met there - could have easily fallen into the Missoula rest day trap and took a boat the rest of the way. We were however advised to stay on the road and off the river, it was 3 or 4 feet higher than usual from all the rain and snow melt. We've experienced nature in its rawest form out here, and the angry chaotic white waters of the Lochsa scared the shit out of us. There was a chance the river could rise enough for them to close the road ahead but luckily the rain stopped.

We some how managed to get up early the next day, still pissed eating breakfast and entertaining the waitresses with my lack of knowledge of egg cooking. The ride through the narrow Lochsa river valley (Canyon, must remember to call it Canyon) was a blur, in a dream like state we somehow managed 90 miles with huge hangovers. I think we both mentally retreated into our booze addled minds for most of it. The 100 mile river valley was another wilderness experience and almost every few miles there would be traces of an avalanche or landslide on the side of the road. Remains of huge trees lay by the side of the road completely shattered like they'd been hit by artillery. Rock falls seemed common and we were repeatedly dodging small boulders on the road. I even had pangs of claustrophobia at one point, feeling trapped by the seemingly endless river valley. It was 65 miles before we reached the first dwellings and the valley finally opened out when we entered the Nez Perce Indian Reserve 80 miles away. Bizarrely our legs still felt good and I'm sure we could have managed another few miles, but our heads were in pieces. Kooskia was the first town of any size so we decided to crash out. It was the perfect day for hangover riding - slight tail wind, sunny and downhill for 90 miles!!!

Today was more of the same, following the Lochsa until it joined the Selway to form the Clearwater. The ride was almost like groundhog day - after every spur of the valley we rode around, the terrain would repeat again almost exactly. It was like this for a good 50 miles. The scenery in the Nez Perce reserve along highway 12 is very similar to Wales, for a while again I was lost mentally thinking I was riding along the Dyfi river valley to Aberdovey. Must stop drinking.

We got into Lewiston early today after a 75 mile coast along by the river - no wind again, sunny and totally flat whole way. We've made the most of the last 2 days knowing they are probably our last days without wind before heading into Oregon and Washington. From here on in a nice strong headwind from the Pacific will be keeping our average speed well and truely down. Kelv needed some bits from the local bike shop and the owner told us that the Columbia river valley was one of the windiest in the USA and a mecca for sail boarding.

Portland is now only approx 340 miles away and the Pacific another 100 from there so we should make it for the weekend. Tomorrows target is Walla Walla in Washington at 102 miles, though we have a bail out option at 80 miles in Waitsburg if the wind is against us.

Here's some more pics from the last 3 days since we left Missoula:

Missoula to Lochsa
Lochsa to Kooskia
Kooskia to Lewiston