Missoula MT to Lewiston ID

Tonight we are right on the Idaho / Washington border in the small town of Lewiston. 3 States in 4 days isn't a bad average! Since we left Missoula in the cold and rain on Thursday we've covered 217 miles of Highway 12 - also called the North West Passage. The first 40 or so miles out of Missoula climb up from about 3250 feet up to Lolo pass right on the Montana / Idaho border at 5235 feet . Crossing the pass we reached the snow line again, this time in freezing rain. Just enough time for a quick photo at the PST sign before fast, cold, precarious descent down to the Lochsa Lodge. We've been yoyoing from wearing summer gear to winter gear so many times now. We even contemplated donating all our winter gear to the 2 guys we met riding Eastwards last week...

After a day riding in the rain Lochsa was like an oasis of heat, beer and good food. Our cabin had a big gas burner and after a little shenanigins and risk of detonating the propane tank we managed to get it fired up to dry out our kit. After wolfing down food in the bar, the lodge owners (one staunch Republican and the other Democrat) invited us along to their pool competition later that evening. The competition aspect seemed to be more about political arguing than pool and after 5 hours of drinking we reached a happy stalemate at 'Well you guys created America, so its all your fault'. This place was one of the best bars we'd been to so far and we had a good laugh with everyone we met there - could have easily fallen into the Missoula rest day trap and took a boat the rest of the way. We were however advised to stay on the road and off the river, it was 3 or 4 feet higher than usual from all the rain and snow melt. We've experienced nature in its rawest form out here, and the angry chaotic white waters of the Lochsa scared the shit out of us. There was a chance the river could rise enough for them to close the road ahead but luckily the rain stopped.

We some how managed to get up early the next day, still pissed eating breakfast and entertaining the waitresses with my lack of knowledge of egg cooking. The ride through the narrow Lochsa river valley (Canyon, must remember to call it Canyon) was a blur, in a dream like state we somehow managed 90 miles with huge hangovers. I think we both mentally retreated into our booze addled minds for most of it. The 100 mile river valley was another wilderness experience and almost every few miles there would be traces of an avalanche or landslide on the side of the road. Remains of huge trees lay by the side of the road completely shattered like they'd been hit by artillery. Rock falls seemed common and we were repeatedly dodging small boulders on the road. I even had pangs of claustrophobia at one point, feeling trapped by the seemingly endless river valley. It was 65 miles before we reached the first dwellings and the valley finally opened out when we entered the Nez Perce Indian Reserve 80 miles away. Bizarrely our legs still felt good and I'm sure we could have managed another few miles, but our heads were in pieces. Kooskia was the first town of any size so we decided to crash out. It was the perfect day for hangover riding - slight tail wind, sunny and downhill for 90 miles!!!

Today was more of the same, following the Lochsa until it joined the Selway to form the Clearwater. The ride was almost like groundhog day - after every spur of the valley we rode around, the terrain would repeat again almost exactly. It was like this for a good 50 miles. The scenery in the Nez Perce reserve along highway 12 is very similar to Wales, for a while again I was lost mentally thinking I was riding along the Dyfi river valley to Aberdovey. Must stop drinking.

We got into Lewiston early today after a 75 mile coast along by the river - no wind again, sunny and totally flat whole way. We've made the most of the last 2 days knowing they are probably our last days without wind before heading into Oregon and Washington. From here on in a nice strong headwind from the Pacific will be keeping our average speed well and truely down. Kelv needed some bits from the local bike shop and the owner told us that the Columbia river valley was one of the windiest in the USA and a mecca for sail boarding.

Portland is now only approx 340 miles away and the Pacific another 100 from there so we should make it for the weekend. Tomorrows target is Walla Walla in Washington at 102 miles, though we have a bail out option at 80 miles in Waitsburg if the wind is against us.

Here's some more pics from the last 3 days since we left Missoula:

Missoula to Lochsa
Lochsa to Kooskia
Kooskia to Lewiston

Heading to Lewiston, Idaho

we're getting ready to roll along highway 12, about 70 miles to lewiston. Weather is fine and wind-free so far, supposed to be about 23 degrees today

should be another long river cruise, let's hope so

Half Way to Awesome

I thought bert had been busily blogging for the last few hours as he was frantically typing on the laptop but it turns out he'd been chatting to people about dubstep, or as he puts it, he was 'busy'.

So here's just a quick update as we both got drunk last night, up until 2am, with a 90 mile ride today at about 17mph average, following the lochsa river all the way to Kooskia (pronounced koos-kee) where we are now.




I was still dragging my cold yesterday but managed to struggle on for 60 miles or so over the Lolo pass and along to the Lochsa Lodge, where the bar staff made us feel very welcome, with pints of Fat Tyre appearing as if by magic and the democrat versus republican arguments going on long into the night.

Today was a long ride starting out wearing everything we owned and ending up in t-shirt and shorts, we're well glad we didn't ditch our cold weather gear.

We're in Idaho now so are on Pacific Time, I think that's the 4th time zone i've ridden into now (eastern, central, mountain, pacific) so we are 8 hours behind. It's 11pm, I still have my cold, plus a hangover, and some sleep to catch up on. After all his hard work tonight bert is already in bed.

That's were I'm going now.

(Hi to Jesse at the Holiday Inn Reception Desk in Missoula, you know you want to do it, buy a bike and go!)

My Own Private Idaho

We're leaving Missoula this morning, heading for the Lolo Pass about 40 miles away on hwy 12, then over the top and down into Idaho for the first time - and Pacific Standard Time! If all goes to plan we'll be staying at the Lochsa Log Cabins near the Powell Ranger Station, right on the Lewis and Clark trail.

Its going to be a soggy cold day - the 30+ centigrade heatwave is long gone, its now 6 deg C and will be raining all the way. We're ready though, wet weather kit is laid out, the bikes have been cleaned and lubed up, just leaves us to stuff our bellies at the cafe down the road and we're outa here.

Its a been a great week in Missoula, but I must admit I'm beginning to feel a little like Alan Partridge holed up in this Holiday Inn ('Have you got your big plate Alan?'). I've swam to the Pacific and back in the hotel pool, Kelv's scared the housekeeping staff numerous times, we've eaten our way through the rooom service menu, watched 20 episodes of Family Guy and even become members at the local video hire shop. Time to leave I think.

Today Idaho, tomorrow Washington! (hopefully...)

Pacific Plans

Its been a while, not sure why I've not been bluging lately, I think I've been content to lounge in the pool and use the hot tub whilst leaving Kelv to it :) Now its his turn to lounge for our 5th day in this great town of Missoula, trying to throw off the lurg he's been brought down with. We could have probably ridden a few token miles further towards Idaho today but there is no point - we'd more than likely have to have another day off tomorrow somewhere much less comfortable and accessible as Missoula.

The town is similar size to Laramie and Helena, about 30,000 people and a University. What strikes you the most is how active everyone is - bikes are everywhere and in all flavours, single speeds, cross bikes, tri, roadies, mtb's, cruisers, kids in little trailers the lot. It doesn't look like the town relies on tourism for its active feel, I think the population is just generally health conscious and biking seems to be the major pastime, along with rafting, canoing, backpacking etc. We hadn't realised but its also the headquarters for the Adventure Cycling Association. This non-profit organisation create bike routes and maps, organise bike tours and help out with the national cycle network (like our Sustrans).

I went to their offices a couple of days ago and bought a few maps - their Lewis and Clark route maps roughly follow the same course I'd planned for the last leg of the journey from Missoula to the Pacific via Portland. These maps are perfect, lots of information on places to eat, sleep, get repairs, much more than you'd find on your average road map. We'll be using sections 6 and 7 for the rest of the trip. It also looked like and amazing place to work - Cartography, American History and Cycling under one roof! (Cooch maybe your perfect job?) I envied the staff there.

Before I left I was asked to sign into their book of visiting cyclists - the guy a couple days before me was a German chap riding round the world. They also took a Polaroid and stuck it on their wall with all the other long distance cyclists that had passed through Missoula. Was then offered free internet access from their computers and free pop and ice cream! Awesome! I was politely asked to leave after my 6th cornetto.

Plans have had to change a little with the time we've spent in Missoula. I was hoping to attempt a big solo ride from Seattle to Vancouver but I doubt I'll be able to squeeze that in now. Health and fitness permitting we should reach the Pacific on Sunday 1st June - 2 days before I fly back to the UK from Vancouver. The route follows Lewis & Clarks trail westward and is something along these lines:

Missoula (MT) > Lolo Pass (MT) > Hwy 12 (ID > Lewiston (ID) > Walla Walla (WA) > Umatilla (WA) > Biggs (OR) > Cascade Locks (OR) > Portland (OR) > Seaside (OR)

Thats about 700 miles approx. We'll be taking a day off to explore Portland and hopefully a day by the Pacific if we have time. I can't wait to see the sea, its weird we feel so close and yet 700 miles is still a good way to go. I'll miss Montana when we head into Idaho. Its been my favourite state so far and was nothing like I expected. Saying that, none of the trip has been anything I expected (not least the snow!!!). Montana's landscape has been the most varied and in the week of riding from West Yellowstone to Missoula we've seen some spectacular scenery with great people and friendly little towns on the way. We also had the best climb of the whole trip so far - the first pass somewhere near what you'd find in the Alps - Flesher Pass. Was good to get stuck into some switchbacks finally!

I've still got 2 weeks left of the trip but I can't stop now thinking of coming back to gritty reality when I get back to the UK. In some ways I'm looking forward to it, in others dreading it. I'm sure I'll forget about it when we get back on the road.

Map Update

You can see our overall progress here. Red pins are ones we drove to with James.


View Larger Map

One more day in bed, frustrating or what!

Bleugh, well, woke up with a cold this morning, all weak and hot and cold, so have scrubbed todays ride unfortunately. It's tough to take another day off like this, we're both keen to do the remaining 660 miles or so to the coast, but it's just not worth riding when you're weak and fluey, will prob just make myself worse.

So another day in bed for me watching family guy. We got room service breakfast and I embarrassed the waitress by lying around in my pants with my eyes closed, moaning softly in self-pity whilst Alan signed the bill. Alan is feeling ok now he's had a proper day's rest so has gone out on an unloaded solo blast up Lolo pass, I've told him I want an average of at least 17mph.

Yesterday we kicked around town, alan had to trawl the bike shops for a new saddle, and also went to the Adventure Cycling Association headquarters, where he now wants to work. I finished the antarctic exploration book in the sun by the river, providing a contrast to what they went through. There was some cool wave surfing going on with kayaks too, it's a cool town.

Hopefully I'll be fine tomorrow, we'll probably be off the internet for a few days though as there's not much in the valley and it'll take us a couple of days to get through it.